The border crossing, our seventh of the trip, was uneventful. We stopped for the night at the Lewis and Clark RV Park in Shelby, the one nearest the border. The winds were cold and howling when we stopped . I struggled against the wind when I went in to arrange a spot to overnight. We stayed in this park on our way to Alaska years ago and it hasn’t improved. The essentials are there and it was a place to stay. Seven other couples arrived at the same time as we did, all on their way back from Alaska. We agreed we would love to share stories, but not in that biting wind.
Our generator ran for over 100 hours on this trip, mainly to power the freezer for a couple of hours a day. An appointment for maintenance was scheduled in Great Falls, Montana. We had an early start from Shelby to make our 9 am appointment. Bre stayed with the motor home while I shopped for groceries and dog food.
It has become a tradition for us to celebrate our anniversary in Jackson Hole. With almost two weeks to go until that date we decided to spend some time in Yellowstone. We set off down Highway 89, a very beautiful road with many possible photo stops. We delayed filling up on fuel in Canada, knowing that the prices would be much lower in the US. Unfortunately, US 89 is a wonderful road for sightseeing but most of the route is through the very large Lewis and Clark National Forest, with few services and no diesel for many miles. The only solution was to detour for a fuel station on another highway. It would be much too late to get to Yellowstone that night but we did find a campground in White Sulphur Springs. Great pullthroughs, cable, wifi and a gorgeous western sunset…this campground would be a perfect place to stay for a couple of days of exploring and photography along 89.
The next morning's drive to Yellowstone was uneventful and the campground owners reserved a large space with wonderful views for us. We both love Yellowstone and immediately set out to see the fall color and look for wildlife. We heard of an elk carcass near the Slough River and joined several people watching the grizzlies that gathered. The elk rut was in full swing and the huge bulls were busy defending their harems. Rut was over for the bighorn rams and they were hanging out in a their happy bachelor groups while the ewes cared for this year’s lambs. A beautiful fox trotted happily along the road with just an occasional glance our way. The bison and pronghorns were active throughout the park.
The snows that we’d left behind caught up with us and we had a quiet day or two as we waited for the roads to open again. A mule deer carcass was near the Petrified Tree lookout and had attracted a black bear with her cubs. She was chased away by Scarface, a comical 24 year old grizzly. Scarface ate a bit then laid across the carcass for the next two days to protect it, sometimes not moving for hours, to the frustration of all of the photographers who gathered. We were able to get several photos during the brief times he moved around and let many visitors look through our eyepieces at the lazy bear. One young Chinese man kept insisting that there could be no bear there, he couldn’t see it. When I let him look though my long lens the smile on his face was priceless.
Road closures were announced throughout the next days as snow fell and was cleared throughout the park. The route to Jackson was blocked with either road closings or snow tires required. Dunraven Pass got enough snow that it seemed it would be closed for the rest of the season. We extended our stay for an eighth day but gave up our plan to be at Oxbow Bend for our anniversary and headed home though South Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa and Missouri.
We were married in Arkansas 21 years ago and decided it would be a good place to stop for our anniversary dinner. National parks and Corp of Engineer campgrounds were closed because of the feuding at the Fed level but, fortunately, Arkansas has wonderful state parks. We stayed in Russellville in a waterfront site with all of the amenities except wifi. Venezia, an Italian restaurant in Russellville has great reviews and we went there for dinner. If you are ever in this town you really need to stop there. The food was some of the best Italian I have ever eaten and the prices are ridiculously inexpensive.
One more stop near Jackson, Mississippi and our 18 week journey will be at its end.
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