Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Palmer and Wasilla

The drive between Seward and Anchorage is a very beautiful one.  We stopped several times along the road for photos. The only animals along the way were a muskrat, a coyote, and many birds.
The campground we stayed in for the last few days is in Palmer.  Like many campgrounds in the area, it only provided 30 amps of electricity.  That means only one air-conditioner, unless I wanted to run the microwave, hot rollers, blow dryer, or clothes dryer.  Then only one appliance at a time. It was hot, only in the 80s but with no breeze and that very strong sun and the motorhome seems to trap heat.   The only option was to wash clothes at night.
We drove into Anchorage to purchase a small freezer for all of the fish and crabs.  Everything fits into the RV freezer but I worry about it not being quite cold enough (Norcold freezers are nicknamed Notsocold by some RVers).  The freezer will sit in the middle of the RV for now.  We moved all of the seafood into it and there's still lots of room for more.
Today we drove up Hatcher Pass.  The road is steep and winding.  About halfway to the Independence Mine at the top the clouds were so thick that we decided to turn around.  We took photos of the river along the way.  A motorcyclist stopped and talked cameras with Breland for quite some time. He is a pilot for FedEX and originally from Metairie.   With all of the things we had in common we had a long and pleasant conversation.
Tomorrow we finally will get the steps repaired and then head to Denali for a few days.  I do hope it is cooler. 
Creek with Fireweed

Talking about Louisiana




Monday, July 29, 2013

Seward, AK

Seward, Alaska provides a city RV park on Resurrection Bay.  Across the bay mountains soar above the city and Godwin Glacier looms above the water.   The first row of RVs are lined up along the bay facing the water.  Cruise ships, fishing boats, sailboats and other pleasure craft all  pass in front of the campground throughout the day and night.
We spent a pleasant five nights in Seward, playing tourist.  The Sea Life Center in Seward has incredible displays of the marine wildlife in the area.  Along the way to Exit Glacier we stopped to eat at the Resurrection Roadhouse with its amazing views of the Resurrection River and mountains above. Eagles line the creeks, waiting for salmon.
The areas surrounding the docks are lined with small restaurants and shops to appeal to the passengers of the cruise ships that dock there.  The National Park service has a strong presence here with a visitor center right in the heart of downtown.
The highlight of the last few days was a long glacier tour we took yesterday.  The boat took us to see Aialik and Holgate glaciers, whales, seals, dolphins, puffins and sea otters,  We stayed long enough at the glaciers to watch calving several times.  The whales were very cooperative.  The captain saw a large group of birds feeding and headed toward them, knowing that the fish would draw whales also.  We saw a total of five humpback whales feeding in the water.
 The boat served a prime rib and salmon dinner that was very well prepared. Breland and I both enjoyed the fresh air, smooth water and beautiful views. We had drinks make with ice from the glacier.
We will head toward Anchorage next to stock up on fuel and items we need for our trip south and to have the steps repaired.
Tufted Puffin

Common Murre

Female Smew

Rhinocerous Auklet


Harbor Seals

Stellar Seals

Jelly Fish in the Icy Glacier Water

Sea Otters, one with Young


Tour Boat and a Whale's Tail


Kittiwakes Warring over Fish

Puffin Colony
Cruise Ship at Anchor in Resurrection Bay, Seward
Margarita with Glacial Ice

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Razor Clams and Sockeye

We’ve been very busy lately and I have not kept up with the blog.   We spent two rather boring days in Homer.  Last time we were there we did boat tours to two of the islands, Seldovia and Halibut Bay.  We wanted to go to Seldovia again but the seas were really choppy.  Our view on the Homer Spit was beautiful but the spaces were crowded and dusty. The highlight of our time in Homer was a great haircut for Clark and a visit to the Farmer’s Market.  There were many produce vendors there with huge and tender vegetables.   We bought lots of vegetables and listened to the Williwaw Marimba Band for quite some time.

We took Clark to a groomer.  She did a really great job and he looked terrific after. The groomer raises and shows poodles but handled Clark’s manly good looks well.

At the end of the Homer Spit many people were lined up trying to catch sockeye salmon.  A little old lady was the most successful.  She seemed to catch a fish every time her hook went into the water, sometimes getting two at once.

I had had enough of Homer and called Scenic View Campground to see if they had space for us to come
in early.  They did, if we were willing to move after the first day,  “No problem”, says my sweet husband so we headed down the road.  We were greeted with a plate of fresh smoked salmon when we arrived at the RV park.  It was warm and really delicious.

Our goal for this part of the trip was to do as much clamming as possible.  The RV park lends clamming equipment and gives advice on the best clamming hotspots. There was a 95% crash in the razor clam population in Ninilchik and we were sent on to Deep Creek. The limit has been reduced to 25 clams each per day.   If you have never been clamming, it is quite an experience.  The best time to go is during the lowest tides.  We drove as far as we could in the CRV on the rocky beach and then walked toward the sea as it receded, watching for the dimple that indicated a clam was hidden below the sand.  Breland used a big clam gun (it looks like a massive bulb planter) to dig down toward the clam.  Usually by the third try he would come up with a 5-7 inch long razor clam.  I used a clamming shovel and was much less successful.

The tide goes way out in Cook Inlet and we walked quite a bit following the tide out and all along the beach. The air is so very clean, the bluffs tower above you, eagles and gulls fly overhead,  and you can see the volcanoes gently smoking across the inlet.  There are many people clamming on the beach at low tide, easily 500 on the Deep Creek beach.  Everyone has a good time.  A couple of guys took it upon themselves to help me figure out the best way to dig and a laughing blonde woman who had “limited out” kneeled on the ground and shoved in up to her shoulder to get the clams out.

Each day we got almost our limit of 50.  On the first day we brought the clams to a “clam lady”, someone who is paid to clean clams.  That  afternoon we watched people clean the FOUR ice chests of clams they got on a charter that took them across the inlet to a beach where there is no limit on the number of clams you can gather.  Cleaning didn’t look any worse than, say, cleaning crabs, so we decided to do the second day’s catch ourselves.  The RV park owner gave a great lesson with lots of hands-on demonstration and we had fun cleaning the clams with another couple.

The best thing about razor clams is eating them. I fried some the first night and packed them away for many more meals.  We now have a freezer full of sockeye, clams, and halibut.  We plan to buy a small chest freezer so that we can store more fish.
Gayle Clamming
A Venting Volcano
Fireweed and Volcano at Midnight

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Ninilchik and Kenai 7/18/2013

Note:  There are many photos in this post.  If you click on the first one to enlarge it you can click through all of the photos at once.

The alarm went off at 4:15 this morning for Breland’s halibut fishing trip.  We dressed quickly and I dropped him off to join the others going with his charter.  Most of the fishing trips were cancelled yesterday afternoon because of a small craft advisory and we weren’t too sure if he would be able to go out today but the boat pulled out as planned.
I went back to the campground to take photos of his boat launching. The tractor pushed his boat out and return for several others as I took photos of the sunrise over the inlet.
Since I was up so early I went back to the Greek Orthodox church for early morning photos and to the Deep Creek area to photograph eagles.  There were 21 eagles in Deep Creek and several more along the beach in the village of Ninilchik.  They were slow and sleepy looking, as though they were waiting for the sun to warm them before they went in search of food.  The number of immature eagles is astounding.  Three stayed together on a twisted bundle of sticks with two adults nearby.  Others lined the creek and several more were in trees along the bluff.
The gulls were eating salmon in the Ninlchik river and the eagles looked as though they were waiting for salmon to come down the creek.  Much of their food now seems to come from the hundreds of halibut carcasses dumped in the area by the charter boats.
Bre caught two nice halibut, not the “barn door” size he had hoped for but nice 35 and 25 pounders.  He arranged for the charter company to pack and flash freeze his fish and we will pick them up tomorrow before we leave for Homer.
We didn’t let them freeze it all, though.   A nice piece of halibut made a wonderful dinner with chimichurri sauce and green rice, preceded by some clam chowder left over from yesterday’s meal.
Yesterday we drove to Kenai to watch the dip netting.  What a madhouse!  Alaskan residents are allowed to dipnet during certain periods.  The Kenai river was crammed with small fishing boats, each loaded with several people dragging five foot wide dip nets behind them. Each household has a season limit of 55 salmon and 10 flounder for a family of  four.
A small herd of caribou are in the Kenai area and many moose.  We saw only one caribou but a total of five moose.  I wish I had a video of the mom and her twins running flat out across the road in front of us.  They ended up in someone’s front yard, did a hard left turn and ran across the yard and into the woods beyond.
Tomorrow we leave for Homer and will stay on the spit, another scenic spot.











Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Soldotna and Ninilchik

None of the campgrounds in Soldotna appealed to us so we decided to boondock in the Fred Meyer parking lot with fifty or so other motorhomes.  It was quite an experience.  The Fred Meyer there is very welcoming to motorhomes and lets you stay there for up to three days.  They even have store staff outside directing traffic and helping you park on busy days.  We arrived when it was quiet and were able to get a spot along the hilly edge of the lot.  If we only looked out of the passenger windows it seemed as though we were parked in a beautiful, flower-filled area.  The driver's side looked out over the store parking lot and was filled with motorhomes.  We stocked up on groceries and toured the area.  
The combat fishermen were busy in the Russian River.  Parking is one side of the river and a small ferry is pulled across to take fishermen to the opposite bank to fish.  Bre has some good photos of that and I will post them soon.
Breland fished from the city boardwalk in Soldotna.  Salmon fishing is important to the city's economy and they have provided boardwalks along much of the river through town.
We had to stop at the Moose is Loose Bakery for a loaf of their volcano bread and some oatmeal raisin cookies for Breland.  That bakery does an incredible amount of business with customers standing in line to buy some of their excellent breads and pastries.
The weather was very warm in Soldotna and I was glad to move on to Ninilchik. Our campground there is on a bluff overlooking the Cook Inlet and two of the volcanoes that line the inlet.  Far below us is the boat launch and a small public campground.  I liked the location of that campground but five days of no hookups was enough for a bit. This one has a beautiful view AND electricity. 
The boat launch is most unusual.  The large fishing boats are pushed into the water by tractors.  Three tractors are kept very busy by the many boat charters in the area.   Tomorrow Breland is leaving at 5 a.m for a halibut charter.  Let's hope he gets a "barn door".
Ninlchik is a small town with inhabitants of mostly Russian descent.  The small church there is lovely and the cemetery is filled with flowers.
View From the Driver's Side Window


Immature Eagle
Halibut Catch



View across Cook's Inlet

Mount Redoubt


Campground Far Below


Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church

Photographer Lost in the Flowers